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The
next stage is to decide what glass to use. This is of course a crucial
step. I have assembled a collection of sheets over time, and keep
most of the cut-off scraps, so there's a good chance I may already
have the right pieces of glass in stock. If not, I check the various
glass manufacturers' catalogues and order the glass I need - or pay
a visit to my local stained glass retailer. |
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Most
stained glass contains colour and pattern variations within each
sheet, since much of it is hand made. My light box is very useful
for choosing both the colour and the specific area within each sheet
which will best work for each part of the pattern.
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The
light box is great for comparing and contrasting different pieces
of glass.
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Once
I've selected all the glass, the pattern is transferred to the
glass - either using the light box to trace on the shape (if the
glass is translucent), or affixing the Mylar pattern pieces to
opaque pieces of glass.
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Here
are some pieces of glass with the pattern traced on, ready for cutting. |
| Now
each piece of stained glass is painstakingly scored and broken out
by hand. Great care is needed not to crack the glass, particularly
when breaking out curves and angles, and especially if the pattern
piece is narrow or hourglass shaped. By the way, internal right angles
are impossible to cut! |
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Some
deep angles are best taken out on the electric grinding wheel, rather
than risking breakage with the cutting tool. |
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